Primum Familiae Vini (PFV) in Montreal! 12 iconic winemaking families cultivating a legacy of values, innovation, and resilience

Twelve families who, together, embody 2,800 years of history across 85 generations

There are days like that… and special moments that life puts in your path that you simply can’t pass up… I was invited to set aside the day of May 8 at the Ritz-Carlton in downtown Montreal to take part in an exceptional wine tasting. Visiting Montreal after more than 10 years away, representatives from each of the twelve family-owned wineries of Primum Familiae Vini (PFV) were in attendance, under the presidency of Prince Robert of Luxembourg. Twelve families who, together, embody 2,800 years of history across 85 generations.

The 12 families members of PFV:

• Marchesi Antinori (Tuscany, Italy)

• Baron Philippe de Rothschild (Bordeaux, France)

• Joseph Drouhin (Burgundy, France)

• Domaine Clarence Dillon (Bordeaux, France)

• Egon Müller Scharzhof (Moselle, Germany)

• Family Hugel (Alsace, France)

• Pol Roger (Champagne, France)

• Famille Perrin (Rhône Valley, France)

• Symington Family Estates (Douro, Portugal)

• Tenuta San Guido (Tuscany, Italy)

• Familia Torres (Catalunya, Spain)

• Tempos Vega Sicilia (Ribera del Duero, Spain)

About Primum Familiae Vini (PFV):

Founded in 1992, Primum Familiae Vini is an invitation-only association comprising twelve of the world’s most prestigious family-owned estates, bringing together twelve of the world’s oldest and most renowned winemaking families. Its mission is to represent the highest level of excellence in the world of wine; to embody both exceptional quality and sustainability; to combine family heritage with innovation; and to demonstrate ambitious vision and a passionate spirit. PFV recently established the PFV Prize, a 100,000 euros award presented every two years to support exceptional family businesses around the world.

Event in Montreal on May 8

Each estate was represented by a prominent member of the family. It was an opportunity to taste a selection of their finest wines and learn about the initiatives led by the association:

- The PFV Award, created in 2020 and worth 100,000 euros, which recognizes an outstanding family business worldwide, across all sectors.

- The PFV Gift Sets, exceptional collections featuring twelve wines, each from member families, also offering exclusive access to the estates.

The event at the Ritz-Carlton on Friday, May 8, took place in two parts: a guided tasting in the Salon Or followed by lunch in the Salon Bleu.

During the first part, the tasting of the first twelve wines, each family member present had six minutes to present their estate and the wine being tasted. We learned during his presentation that Marc-André of the Hugel family (13th generation) had fallen in the estate’s wine cellar the day before, but was determined to attend the event in Montreal despite a sprained ankle. But the worst part was that in his fall, he broke five bottles of 1989 wine—the year he was born! Given his sense of humor and good spirits, those in attendance were more concerned about the fact that prestigious bottles had been broken than that Marc-André had been injured in the fall.

Tasting of the first 12 wines:

• Champagne Pol Roger - Blanc de Blancs 2016

• Familia Torres - Forcada 2023

• Maison Joseph Drouhin - Beaune Clos des Mouches 2019

• Famille Perrin - Château de Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 2009

• Egon Müller Scharzhof - Scharzhofberger Kabinett 2010

• Famille Hugel - Muscat Grossi Laüe Grand Cru Schoenenbourg 2019

• Marchesi Antinori - Badia A Passignano 2010

• Domaine Clarence Dillon - Château Quintus 2016

• Baron Philippe de Rothschild - Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild 2015

• Tempos Vega Sicilia - Unico 2015

• Tenuta San Guido - Sassicaia 2011

• Symington Family Estates - Dow's Colheita 2007

2nd part: lunch in Salon Bleu where the highlighted wines were:

• Champagne Pol Roger - Brut Vintage Édition Vinothèque 2004

• Famille Hugel - Riesling Grossi Laüe 2010

• Maison Joseph Drouhin - Beaune Clos des Mouches 2009

• Marchesi Antinori - Solaia 2007

• Tenuta San Guido - Sassicaia 2008

• Familia Torres - Mas La Plana 2007

• Baron Philippe de Rothschild - Château Mouton Rothschild 2011

• Tempos Vega Sicilia - Unico 2005

• Domaine Clarence Dillon - Château Haut-Brion 2014

• Famille Perrin - Hommage à Jacques Perrin 2009

• Egon Müller Scharzhof - Scharzhofberger Trockenbeerenauslese ‘alpha’ 2005

• Symington Family Estates - Graham's Vintage 1994

For me, the most interesting part of this prestigious event was being able to talk with the family members, who were all very approachable.

Conversation with Rupert Symington

During this exceptional event in Montreal on May 8, I had the privilege of speaking individually with Rupert Symington, a fourth-generation member of the iconic Symington family, which has been based in Portugal’s Douro Valley since 1882.

The Symington family has been producing Port for five generations, since 1882, and can trace its winemaking heritage back fourteen generations to 1652, through their ancestor Beatrice Carvalhosa-Atkinson. Today, the family is the largest owner of exceptional vineyards in the Douro Valley, including estates such as Quinta do Bomfim, Quinta do Vesuvio, and Quinta do Ataíde. It also owns Quinta da Fonte Souto, a high-quality estate in the Alto Alentejo, as well as Casa de Rodas in the Monção region of Minho, in the Vinho Verde region.

Producers of excellent red and white wines from the Douro, the Symingtons are also among the leading producers of premium Port, with brands such as Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, and Cockburn’s. In fact, 80% of Symington’s revenue comes from its Port wines, demonstrating the recognition and appreciation of consumers.

During my interview with Rupert, we talked about the privilege and pride of being part of Primum Familiae Vini (PFV)—which is, in fact, indicated on some of their bottles. We also discussed their efforts to be a socially and environmentally responsible company. Symington holds the B Corp certification, an accreditation awarded to companies that meet rigorous standards for verified performance, accountability, and transparency regarding social and environmental issues.

Not to mention their collaboration with the non-profit organization Rewilding Portugal, which supports environmental conservation and the enhancement of biodiversity, notably through the restoration of habitats and prey populations for key species such as the wolf, the Iberian lynx, the deer, and various raptors, within a 120,000-hectare wildlife corridor located in the great Côa Valley. A few years ago, Symington launched Altano Rewilding, a special edition under the Altano by Symington Family Estates wine brand, in partnership with Rewilding Portugal.

Rupert also humbly informed me that the company is a member of the IWCA (International Wineries for Climate Action), whose members are committed to pursuing the same goals: reducing their greenhouse gas emissions, improving land management, protecting biodiversity, and acting as socially responsible companies engaged at the local level.

This year, Symington received another prestigious distinction. Moving up eight spots from last year, the family-owned company was ranked No. 8 in the “The World’s Most Admired Wine Brands 2026” list compiled by Drinks International.

I wrapped up our conversation by asking him if it’s a concern—or a real issue—that young people today don’t drink. “The new generation drinks what it wants and does what it wants, and we need to reach out to them. The reality is that it’s the older generations who have the budget for certain products,” he says. And indeed, it’s always been that way!

Two Italian families—two cousins around the table

At lunch, I was at the table with the two Italian cousins, and it was lovely to see the close bond between Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta (5th generation, Tenuta San Guido) and Alessia Antinori (Marchesi Antinori). “It must be interesting when your families get together,” I commented. “Our families get along very well; it’s always a pleasure to get together,” Alessia replied with a big smile.

Winemaker Tasting Evening at the ITHQ with Mireia Torres

As part of its involvement with the Barcelona chapter of the IWF (International Women's Forum), the Montreal chapter of the IWF hosted Mireia Torres of Familia Torres - a leading figure in Spanish viticulture - for a gourmet dinner at the ITHQ (Institut de tourisme et d'hôtellerie du Québec) on Wednesday, May 6. Hailing from an iconic winery founded by Miguel Torres, Mireia carries on a legacy that has helped modernize Spanish winemaking and bring its wines to the international stage.

During this exceptional dinner evening, Mireia presented her wines and discussed food and wine pairings. The ITHQ team offered a menu inspired by Quebec terroir—a beautiful meeting of Spanish winemaking tradition and Quebec terroir!

For my part, during this dinner I fell head over heels for the Brandy de Jerez, Familia Torres, Jaime I (30-year-old), named after the founder of the Torres house, Jaime Torres. It comes in a magnificent bottle with an original design inspired by La Pedrera, one of Gaudí’s most iconic buildings in Barcelona.

The rotating annual presidency of PFV:

Event in Montreal under the presidency of Prince Robert of Luxembourg

Prince Robert of Luxembourg was appointed president of Primum Familiae Vini nearly a year ago, where he has dedicated himself to upholding the legacy of family values, innovation, and sustainable development in the fine wine sector. Succeeding Charles Symington, Prince Robert assumed his duties June 27, 2025. This annual rotation of leadership among PFV members ensures a continuous influx of new ideas and a dynamic vision.

For more than three decades, the PFV has fostered an environment where tradition and progress blend harmoniously, giving rise to some of the most exceptional wines on the planet. Beyond formal discussions, the enduring bond that unites the PFV families is characterized by genuine camaraderie, strengthened by annual gatherings that cement friendships across generations.

As Chairman and CEO of Domaine Clarence Dillon, Prince Robert carries on the remarkable legacy of his maternal great-grandfather, Clarence Dillon, who acquired Château Haut-Brion in 1935. Under his visionary leadership, Domaine Clarence Dillon has significantly expanded its scope, venturing into diverse fields such as fine dining, wholesale distribution, retail, and hospitality, as evidenced by its two-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris, Le Clarence, and the fine wine shop, La Cave du Château. The Dillon family joined Primum Familiae Vini in 2018, bringing its five-generation history, passion, and commitment to this impressive community of like-minded members.

Meeting with Prince Robert of Luxembourg in Montreal

I was able to steal a few minutes of his time on Saturday morning to discuss his year as president of PFV. He shared with me the special significance Montreal holds for him—a city that welcomed his father during World War II in 1945. He also shared his thoughts on the SAQ’s Inspire loyalty program, which he finds very interesting because it helps educate consumers about what they like and build their wine connoisseur profile.

The family-owned Domaine Clarence Dillon is now chaired and led by Prince Robert of Luxembourg, representing the modern generation in a family history that began with his great-grandfather in 1935.

I also asked him if it was a concern, or a real issue, that young people today don’t drink. “The new generation wants an experience with wine,” he says. He adds that, in his view, all generations are drinking less but better, and that we need to promote better consumption for a healthier quality of life.

Upcoming Presidency of Primum Familiae Vini

The upcoming presidency, set to begin shortly, will be led by Alessia Antinori, currently vice president of the family-owned Marchesi Antinori, founded 630 years ago. Alessia and her sisters are the first women in 26 generations to lead the family business. She grew up at Palazzo Antinori, the 15th-century family home in Florence, where she became familiar with viticulture, winemaking, and the global marketing of wine. Alessia is also the driving force behind the Antinori Chianti Classico Art Museum and the Antinori Art Project, which guides all family initiatives focused on “contemporary art.” As the first female winemaker at Marchesi Antinori, Alessia remarked in a 2020 interview with Forbes magazine, “This is the perfect time to be a woman in the wine world.”

The Origins of Primum Familiae Vini:

In the early 1990s, a friendly conversation between Robert Drouhin and Miguel Torres marked the beginning of Primum Familiae Vini. As they walked together through the vineyards of Burgundy, they discussed the challenges facing family-owned wineries in a rapidly changing world, shaped by globalization and the growing concentration of industry players.

They then realized they shared common concerns: preserving the independence and freedom of their estates, ensuring the transition to future generations without sacrificing family identity, and continuing to produce great wines to the highest standards. From this reflection emerged a founding conviction: to unite, share their experiences, and together ensure the survival of the family business model in the world of wine. Primum Familiae Vini was thus founded in 1991, bringing together a deliberately select group of families united by a shared vision and an uncompromising commitment to excellence.